Anti-Government Protests Scene 2

Anti-Government protesters have taken to the streets of Bangkok once again. While in November the protesters were yellow-shirted royalists representing the country's elite--professionals, military, middle class--this time it is the red-shirted supporters of Thailand's ousted prime minister, who in exile commands a great following. Both groups claim to be pro-democracy, but the definition is muddled. Ex-prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra was certainly corrupt (Yellow shirt argument), but instituted many popular programs for the rural and urban working class (Red shirt argument). After the votes were counted last year, Thaksin's party won, but the party was then declared illegal by the courts. The current prime minister (Supported by the yellow shirts) was appointed by parliament. This is the conundrum.

A similar scene as the yellow shirt protests in November is today's action by the red shirts. A friend witnessed yesterday the incapacitating of an army armored vehicle by the red shirts who, he said, "swarmed all over the vehicles like ants." The riot closed a major street while the police stood by. The police are simply outnumbered, and generally do not carry weapons. Likewise, the protesters do not carry guns. By and large, such protests are non-violent, as Thai law enforcement personnel are reluctant to harm fellow citizens who are not endangering lives. There have been exceptions, of course, but few, and no deaths. The army has been called out to contain important areas of the city, but can they? Certainly the police and army have splits in their ranks concerning loyalties. 

Causing further confusion is the fact that the king is the head of the military. As Thailand struggles toward a vision of true democracy, the roles of the monarchy, military, and elected ministry are blurred. This is truly an important transition period in Thai politics. A colleague who has lived in Thailand for many years notes that each time the country hits a rough spot like this, it comes through shaken, but with tangible change toward greater stability.

While Thailand goes through yet another difficult time, the effects on us personally have been minor, as they were in November. Life goes on in most of Thailand as if nothing were happening. Maybe it is because this happens so frequently in Thailand, and eventually it will be sorted out, possibly by the military. But is seems more difficult now as people have become more openly polarized. It may not be so simple this time around. We remain vigilant, and monitor the news reports, as well as avoiding areas where there may be trouble. The news reports may make it seem as though the streets of Bangkok are awash in anarchy, but that is not the case. We are safe, and life goes on. Meanwhile, the tourist beaches are virtually empty, so that is where we are headed today, leaving this troubled city behind for a few days, as the country celebrates the Thai new year.

Thai-Chinese Cuisine

The very large proportion of Chinese Thais here influences many aspects of Thai culture: Medicine, finance, festivals, and, of course, food. While traditional Chinese food is quite different than Thai food, there is some overlap, but for the most part, it is easy to distinguish the two. Yesterday, as I walked through a part of the city where I lived twenty years ago, I came across a tiny corner open-air restaurant that I used to pass each day on my way to and from work. Unobtrusive, yet located in one of the most upscale tourist areas in Bangkok, in the shadow of gleaming five star hotels and beneath the sleek elevated skyway, it seemed to be unchanged by time. Rickety chairs nestled under plain wooden tables, handmade shelves piled with various utensils and food tins, lighting provided mainly by the daylight, and an ancient, shuffling owner, scowling and mumbling as we ordered from the menu that I know had been unchanged through the intervening decades (On its frayed and faded pages it still lists a beer that no longer exists in Thailand).

While the ambience may give a certain rustic charm to the dining experience, it is the menu itself that is the draw for me (Proclaiming Chinese, Thai, and European food). If one claims to be adventurous, and will "try anything" (You know the type), sit them down at this humble establishment and watch as they read through the "specials." For your gourmet enjoyment, have them try the "cow's stomach soup" or perhaps the "fried deer gut with red sauce." For those who prefer pork, there is the "fried pig bowel," or the "pig's ear salad." I am not making this up (And you thought it was only on "The Addams Family!"). If one is still undecided, I suggest trying the "Fried Eight Things."

So, the next time you are in Bangkok, drop in to the Yonglee Restaurant at the corner of Sukhumvit Road and Soi 15. And if you happen to give it a try, please let me know the identity of the "Eight Things." (I was tempted, but, no, I didn't.)

Spirit Worship

One is frequently reminded that although officially a Buddhist country, Thailand nevertheless has a variety of belief systems woven into its culture. While Buddhist temples dominate the landscape, there are thousands of altars virtually everywhere in the country that have nothing to do with Buddhism. Prior to embracing Buddhism, the Thais were--and still are--animists, believing in the ability of spirits to inhabit just about everything. This is shown in the many spirit houses in yards, in front of hotels, outside of every business, on street corners, and in some cases, at the sites of fatal accidents where offerings are made to the ghosts of departed loved ones. 

Accident site

If one looks closely at these altars, it is generally not the image of a Buddha that receives the prayers. Usually they are mythological creatures, photos of ancestors, or Hindu images, particularly Brahma, the four faced Hindu god of creation or Ganesh, the elephant-headed god of success, as Hinduism continues to exert a strong influence. Even Vishnu, the supreme Hindu deity, is embedded in the official Thai government seal. These are the most popular altars outside of Buddhist temples. Interestingly, they are often seen at street intersections, so that--according to a Thai friend--they act as a type of traffic control: Drivers slow to pay their respects.

Brahma worship

It is indoors, or if outdoors, on the grounds of temples, where images of the Buddha are worshipped. Well, there and on the dashboards of taxis. The religious practice of Thai Buddhists is complex, and offers a fascinating look into the culture of this calm and accepting people. Don't try to figure it out: The Thais will laugh and tell you that they themselves cannot explain it. (To read more about Thai spirit houses, go to www.chiangmai-chiangrai.com/spirit_house.html)