Those who live near the sea, or visit it often, know that it has many moods, and those can change quickly. Recently, we spent five days south of Hua Hin, on a popular quiet stretch of beach known as Phu Noi, or "Dolphin Bay" to the many western farang (foreigners) who have discovered its simple beauty and peacefulness. Each day, I rose before sunrise to walk along the edge of the sea and experience the dawn. For me, the best time was between 5:45 and 6:30, the time when the squid fishermen returned, and the sky displayed its most dramatic colors and light effects, reflected in the calm waters.
