Bangkok Chaos

Usually when one hears the words "Bangkok" and "chaos" used together, it creates visions of typical traffic gridlock in Thailand's capital city. Lately, it has become indicative of the country's economy, political structure and security. For the past several weeks, the center of Bangkok has been the scene of political protests (rather than re-hash the situation, see my previous post update) that have brought the financial center to a virtual standstill.

The anti-government demonstrators ("Red shirts"), composed largely of upcountry laborers and small business people, who back the exiled former prime minister found guilty of corruption, have a coordinated and formidable strategy to disrupt commerce in the city's center. The army has decided not to force a confrontation, as it will result in huge casualties on both sides (a clash a week ago left more than 20 dead), and the sitting prime minister refuses to bow to the "intimidation" (his words) and negotiate an early election. Counter demonstrators have taken to the streets, and the pro-government supporters ("Yellow shirts") are considering their options. The resulting stalemate is increasingly evident of a serious problem and potential threat to national security. Grenades from an unknown source exploded at several sites a few days ago, resulting in one death and dozens of injuries. Each side blames the other, and no one seems to have evidence pointing at any one group or individual responsible. No one has taken responsibility for the attack.

Thai friends are worried, and I note a touch of embarrassment: They say that the situation is worse than any previous situation, even those that resulted in military coups. No one seems to know how it will all play out, and tensions are rising. It is almost surreal how life is carrying on normally in most places, without recognition that there is a problem. Perhaps their fears prevent them from voicing concerns. Tourists pose for photos in front of police lines and buy red shirt souvenirs; Thais bring entire families to the red shirt "parties."

Thailand, as in most countries, operates its government behind the scenes, where deals are made. A friend passed on a quote about the U.S. government that is appropriate here, I'm sure: "It's like a sausage, it looks delicious on the outside, but you sure don't want to know what's on the inside!" Stories abound about back door negotiations so that everyone can "save face," an important part of Thai culture. I hope that this is true. The present situation cannot go on much longer.