Vietnamese Fishing Village, Cambodia

While going through some boxes the other day, I came across some digitized photos (originals taken with 100 ASA Kodak film) that I thought I had lost (Yes, I realize that I need to be more systematic in my filing of photographs, so don't get started on that). It was a wonderful trip down memory lane to a trip taken a few years ago to Cambodia, and fun to sort through and pick out some shots for sharing. I decided to concentrate on one aspect of the trip--most people have hundreds of photos of the classic Khmer ruins of Angkor Wat and its marvelous ancient neighbors, as do I--however, the fishing village of Mui Ne not far from Siem Riap was an interesting side trip that offered a glimpse of a way of life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries.

On the huge Tonle Sap lake, which is a widening of the Mekong River not far from Siem Riap, a village of Vietnamese fishermen sits not on the shore near the lake, but actually on the lake. Mui Ne village is one where everyone packs up and moves as the tide rises during the monsoon season so as not to be stranded far offshore, and then back again during the dry season. The Vietnamese are Cambodia's largest minority, and the tradition of floating fishing villages can be traced to the 1700's. Tourists can take a boat tour of the village and an offshore restaurant, which seems to be way out in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by lapping waves as far as one can see. If you are interested in learning more about the fishing village, tourism, or the Tonle Sap, an Internet search will turn up dozens of sites. 

Photos by the author (2008), all rights reserved. Do not use without permission.

Children all over the world play on whatever type of equipment they can find. In a fishing village it is not surprising that they play in abandoned boats.

Bathing is pretty simple: it's just a splash outside the door.

Returning from the market.

It isn't ipads or TV that piques the curiosity of these boys.

Washing up.

Deliveries and transportation is by boat, deftly moved through the backwater by skilled oarsmen and women.

Even farming is done on the water. Here a villager tends to pigs that are kept in a pen made of tree limbs. 

A typical floating home and its brilliant abstract reflection at Mui Ne in the late afternoon sun.

Relaxing while gently rocking on the waves

Moments in time 2

The second of my posts of random scenes taken as I move through daily life in Thailand (See my first post "Moments in time" from August 6, 2013). Most of these are quick glimpses as I passed by (or as they passed by me). Taken together, they weave an image of the lives of ordinary Thais in what is becoming a more complex society.

Ukelele player in an art studio, Ramkhamhaeng Road

Sometimes trying to solve a problem creates a bigger one.
Near Jatujak 2 market, Minburi.

Monsoon rains come almost daily from May through October. They are warm and heavy, lasting usually only an hour or two, but often bringing flooded roadways. Ramkhamhaeng Road, Saphansung.

Classic Thai sculpture of legendary characters in Thai mythology. Found on the wall in an unused parking lot near a restaurant on Ekamai Road, Wattana.

A woman moves her charcoal grill past street food stalls.
Summakon Village, Saphansung.

Taking a break from selling lottery tickets. Sihaburaniket Road, Minburi.

A lone fishing boat under gathering storm clouds.
Koh Chang (Elephant Island), eastern Thailand.

A knife sharpener carries his whetstone throughout the neighborhood,
seeking customers. Eastern Bangkok.

Clearing storm over Koh Larn (Coral Island) near Pattaya.

Every day, same spot. This woman sells cool drinks on Sukhumvit Road
near the Ekamai bus station.

Gorgeous sunset colors in Summakon Village, Saphansung, eastern Bangkok.
The colors lasted no more than five minutes. iPhone photo.

Traditional wooden shutters, Minburi.

A young girl's special find on the beach. Pu Noi Beach, Dolphin Bay, Pranburi.

Loy Krathong in Thailand: Cultural tradition or environmental problem?

A home made krathong

Loy Krathong ("floating crown") is a traditional Thai (not Buddhist) holiday that falls on the full moon of the 12th month of the Thai lunar calendar, near the end of the traditional lunar year (but not coinciding with the official calendars). This generally is in November, at the end of the rainy season and the rice harvest. People make elaborate lotus-shaped decorations of banana trunk slices, banana leaves, flowers, incense sticks and candles, then float them on waterways. Many people add a baht coin, and some place clippings of fingernails and hair on the float. It traditionally signifies letting go of negative thoughts, such as anger and hatred; some use it to honor the water goddess, while many use it as one of the year's biggest social events. Thousands are drawn to rivers and canals to not only float krathongs, but to be blessed by monks and to party with friends, or indeed, all of the above.

Krathongs and Chinese lanterns (Loy Fa) released at a lake in eastern Bangkok. The lantern captured by the tree eventually escaped!

In recent years, it was noted that the floating of so many krathongs, along with the waste generated by the event, has quite a negative impact on the environment. In response to the use of styrofoam for the krathongs that eventually ended up clogging the shores of the Gulf of Thailand, Thais were encouraged to use biodegradable materials, such as banana stems and leaves, as well as making krathongs from bread, which the fish can eat. During last week's festivities, I did not see any styrofoam krathongs, although there may still be some made. However, the krathongs are generally held together by nails or staples, which contribute their own negative impacts on the aquatic life. Some Thais argue that using banana doesn't matter, that the event still pollutes the water with decomposing vegetation, and they thus refuse to participate.

A krathong salesman near a Buddhist wat (temple)

I spent an evening documenting two Loy Krathong events near my home in the eastern suburbs of Bangkok. One was in an upper-middle class development, the other at a large temple complex that straddles a major canal running through Bangkok. The celebrants obviously enjoyed themselves, the pious went through many of the Thai Buddhist rituals, and nearly everyone bought or made krathongs and floated them on the canal. The celebration lasted well past midnight under a bright full moon.

Making sweet treats outside the temple complex

It is considered good luck to place small coins in a series of goblets at a wat.

Even the monks got in on the selling of krathongs

Monks teach and give blessings inside a temple outbuilding

Throngs of people jammed the temple complex and the footbridge spanning the klong (canal) that separates the sister wats.

Hundreds of people take turns floating krathongs on the klong.

In addition to floating krathongs on the water, Chinese lanterns (Loy fa: "float in sky") are also released (directly into the flight path of planes landing at the international airport).

Krathongs on the canal between the two temples

A few boatloads of people intercepted the krathongs looking for any one baht (3 cents) coins that were added.

A monk ties simple blessed string bracelets to celebrants who wear them for good luck until they disintegrate and fall from the wrist.

Sidewalk merchants continue to sell their wares outside the temple until early morning.

After the celebration: the waste and the wasted.