Chiang Mai, Thailand: An intimate look

Returning to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand for a visit, I had seen most of the "must see" sights. However, as I walked through the streets in the Old City and into the courtyards of some of the more than 100 temples, I began to look a little more closely at the details. As a result, I came away with a more intimate look at Thailand's second largest city.

Following are glimpses into the everyday scenes in Chiang Mai, nearly all without identifying features that give away their location. My intent was to document the city and its people up close. I hope I have succeeded, and invite your comments.

All photos by the author, all rights reserved. Copyright © 2014 John R Stiles. It is illegal to use the images without permission.

Monk vestments drying near the dormitory at a temple.

Colorful decorations hang across a temple prayer hall.

Puppets in traditional Thai dress

A senior monk strolls down a street, shielded from the hot sun

This delicate glassware contains relics of various important Buddhist monks. One (higher, out of sight) is purported to contain a relic of the Buddha.

Thais do not have cemeteries so most temples have memorials like this for families to remember their departed loved ones. 

Temple altars have a variety of Buddha images

Weathered wood of temples has wonderful texture

Bodhi trees (it is said Buddha attained enlightenment under one in India) are considered sacred in Thailand, thus many are wrapped in colorful lengths of fabric.

Intricate reliefs are common on temple windows and doors

This colorful shed caught my eye

An artist paints on a temple's grounds.

Temple altar. The lotus-shaped decorations are made from dried flowers. Beautiful and intricate.

At night, Chiang Mai is quiet, with scenes like this along small side streets.

Street vendors work late into the night. This one is near my hotel.

Akha hill tribe woman near Chiang Mai

Lost in translation. The Thai is not any more understandable, according to a Thai friend. This was written by a monk at a mountaintop temple near Chiang Mai.

Steps on a pagoda that enshrines a Buddha relic, built by local kings circa 1840.

A senior monk blesses the devout.

There are many al fresco paintings on temple walls. Unfortunately, I cannot read the teachings written beneath each one. You will just have to use your imagination.

This is an exception to my unidentifiable location guideline. Anyone who has been to this temple will know it immediately. But I liked the contrast and unusual perspective of this view. Most visitors take photos of the grand vista within the temple grounds. This one makes me feel like being on the inside looking out.

I liked the serene face and gold leaf on this Buddha statue in one of the temples.

Life size concrete elephants surround a chedi (pagoda) at a temple

Kitchen at a riverside restaurant

A One Day Ramble in Bangkok

Bangkok is a city of contrasts: ancient and modern, traditional and new, serene and frantic, grand and modest, complex and simple. Most first-time visitors to Bangkok, or Krungtep (Kroong tep), as it is called by Thais (its current name), see the more dynamic sights: glittering temples alongside the mighty Chao Praya River, huge gleaming shopping malls, floating markets, Yaowarat Road in Chinatown, the Grand Palace, and the robust night life of Patpong, Soi Cowboy and Sukhumvit Road.

But for those who stay a while, often years, more layers of Bangkok can be peeled away through short excursions in any part of the city. This way, Bangkok becomes more identifiable, more familiar and thus less intimidating.

This is not to say that one can just let down all defenses and stray anywhere in this megalopolis that is ten times the size of New York City in area. Like any large world city, dangers lurk in certain places, and even the seasoned resident is wise to remain vigilant.

However, the quiet side of Bangkok, which reflects the more traditional way of life, as well as the life of those struggling to better their lives of living hand to mouth can be observed by traveling in the less well-known but relatively safe areas of the city. It is there that "cheewit Thai" (Thai life) can be experienced.

I recently took a one day tour of Bangkok, using six modes of travel (walking, motorcycle taxi, metered taxi, subway, train and canal boat taxi). Here, in chronological order, are the sights along the way.

All photos © by the author. All rights reserved. Do not use without permission.

Construction workers make 200-300 baht (~$6.50-$9.50) per ten hour day. Here workers take a break along the railway by Laksi station in northern Bangkok.

Many temporary homes (that frequently become more or less permanent) are found in several locations. This is a setting along the northern rail line near Bang Sue station.

Hua Lumpong is the city's central station and a hub of travel connections for Thais and foreign visitors alike. Here three recent graduates of the prestigious police academy proudly pose.

Chinatown is a short walk from Hua Lumpong station. On Yaowarat Road, one can observe continuous activity at Chinese Buddhist and Taoist temples.

The state lottery, held twice a month, is a very large part of Thai life. Vendors can be seen literally everywhere, some walking, some on bicycles, some set up like this man on city sidewalks. This is on Yaowarat Road. Last week's winner took home 30 million baht (about US$940,000). Such jackpots keep the hopeful buying tickets, many first conferring with fortune tellers or getting lucky numbers from temples.

A popular activity in many parts of the world: fish that clean dead skin from a person's feet. This sidewalk shop is on a side street in Chinatown.

If one wants to experience even more traditional life, it is necessary to explore the tiny alleys that twist between side streets, particularly in Chinatown. Here a man prepares gai tod, crispy deep fried chicken.

A common sight everywhere in Thailand away from the modern uptown streets: soups cooked over open charcoal fires

On a tiny side street, these men peel hundreds of mangoes each day.

Commerce is continuous, even away from the main roads, products moved by hand cart as shown here, or often carried on shoulder poles or simply on shoulders or backs.

In a small Chinese temple (only three other persons stopped by while I was there), the altar displays a wooden bell (right) and monk prayer books, two in Thai, the other in Chinese.

Durian, the most wonderful (or disgusting, depending on one's sense of smell) fruit in Thailand. Hotels often post signs proclaiming that this pungent fruit may not be taken into rooms.

A young caped crusader casts a serious look in front of an herbal drink shop. I tried one of the brews that is proclaimed to have healthy healing effects. Unfortunately, they also added a lot of sugar, which pretty much negates any health benefits.

A friend, Greg Goodmacher, a professor and free lance writer from Japan, collects information about teas for an upcoming article about Thailand tea and coffee shops. The most expensive tea at this shop is jasmine flower, which costs 8,000 baht per kilo ($113 per pound)!

An array of teas on display.

More herbal drinks brewed at another shop. I tried this one too.
Still too sweet.

Some of the herbs used to make drinks.
The far one looked like a type of cedar.

An ice crushing machine in a back alley of Chinatown. About half of the very large ice blocks (under the tarps behind the young man) had been hoisted up one by one and put through the chopper, then bagged and delivered to nearby shops.

On the walk back to Hua Lumpong station, I saw this man sleeping in a doorway. It is not an unusual sight, but it is fairly uncommon to see, even though Bangkok is quite large.

After a ride on the subway, I stopped to take a boat taxi on the San Saeb canal. There are many sights of Thai life to see along the way. Here, standing room only requires passengers to hang onto ropes slung across the boat's ceiling.

Small cable ferries take passengers across the canal for three baht
(10 cents)

Although canal boats do not have the problem of traffic jams, delays can happen. As my luck would have it, the engine overheated and we sat for several minutes while the conductors poured canal water on it until cool enough to start again.

At a wat (temple) near the boat terminus, statues of revered monks are adorned with gold leaf by the faithful.

If you want to see the less hectic and more traditional side of Thailand in its capital city, get off the main roads. You will learn a lot.

Do's and Don't's in Thailand

Last year, for the web site of an international conference hosted by the agency where I work, a Thai colleague and I made a list of things visitors to Thailand should know in order to get the most out of the trip, and to eliminate embarrassing situations (well, ok, to reduce the number of embarrassing situations). This is by no means complete, but it is helpful for first-time travelers to the "Land of Smiles".

Greeting

The traditional way of greeting in Thailand is the “wai” (pronounced wye), in which the palms are pressed together in front of the body. There are many subtleties involved in the wai: how it is done and where the hands are placed as well as where the eyes are focused are beyond the scope of the newcomer. Basically, remember that the wai is how Thais greet others, including you. If you are greeted with a wai, you may wai back, or simply nod. Do not extend your hand (to shake hands) unless a Thai offers his/hers first (many western educated Thais will do this to make you feel more comfortable). Generally, the higher the respect one is accorded, the higher the wai given. For most greetings, make your wai on the chest with your fingers just below your chin.

“Sawadee” is the all-purpose greeting, as well as when saying goodbye. It accompanies the wai. Males end with “krup,” females end with “ka.” Thus, “Sawadee, krup” or “Sawadee, ka,” with emphasis given on the "krup" and "ka".

Voice

One thing you will probably notice right away is that conversations in Thailand are quiet. Even the drivers of the millions of cars in Bangkok very rarely use their horns. It is a peaceful country, and that includes the voice. Westerners sometimes use very loud voices in conversation or in trying to make themselves understood, and it is very annoying. Remember to follow the lead of your hosts and keep your voice even and low. Never shout.

Disagreements

One of the cultural norms in Thailand is “saving face.” Most Thais, when entering into a discussion that involves a disagreement will leave a way out for everyone rather than try to win an argument. The visitor would be wise to do the same. A favorite phrase to use if a person may be embarrassed or has made a mistake is “Mai pen rai,” which means, “It doesn’t matter,” or “Don’t worry about it.”

Head, Hands, and Feet

·         Never touch another person’s head—the head is considered the highest part of the body and therefore is accorded the most respect.

·         Never step over a person or a person’s food—the feet are considered not only the lowest, but dirtiest part of the body. You should also be sure your feet are clean before getting a foot massage, although the masseuse will probably clean them anyway, but it is a courtesy.

·         Never point your foot at anyone, and never, ever at a monk, image of the royals or at an image of the Buddha (when seated on the floor of a temple, point your feet away from the altar).

·         Don’t elevate your feet. Putting your feet up on a desk is a big no-no, even putting your feet on the back of a bus seat or the console of the taxi or bus: it is impolite to do this to the person in front of you.

·         Never touch a monk or his robes. Females should not sit next to a monk, for example on the skytrain or bus.

·         It’s a good idea for a male to not touch a female. Even though this is changing, a great many Thais are uncomfortable being touched, even if having fun. Let them take the lead. If they don’t touch you, don’t touch them.

·         In general, Thais consider it impolite to point at someone.

·         You may notice that some Thais will lower their head or even crouch as they pass you, particularly if they have to pass between you and someone with whom you are having a conversation. Try to avoid putting them in such an uncomfortable situation.

Language

The Thai language is tonal. Many different words sound the same to foreigners but may have completely different meanings. Don’t be surprised if Thais have no idea what you are saying, even if to you it “looks” or sounds right. It takes some time to know the difference, and some foreigners never do. Do try to learn basic vocabulary, but don’t worry if you don’t get it right. Thais will appreciate the effort. See “Sawadee Thailand” on the web site for common and useful Thai phrases.

In the Temple (Wat)

All wats (temples) are holy places, even those considered tourist attractions, and should be accorded the greatest respect. Appropriate clothing is expected (no short shorts or tank tops), although the standards are more lenient than a few years ago. Remove your shoes before entering a temple (follow the lead of the Thais).

Shoes

Nearly all homes will have pairs of shoes in front of the door: Thais remove them before entering a house. In some commercial establishments the same practice is followed: For example, when you see shoes in front of a massage spa, then remove yours before entering. In most other commercial shops and stores it is not necessary.

Don’t be surprised if:

·         You don’t get what you order. There is a saying here: “Order what you want, eat what you get.” Even if written down, the dish brought to you may not be exactly what you ordered, especially when it comes to spiciness and sweetness. “Not spicy” (mai pet) often means “don’t add any more chilis than usual,” and “Not sweet” often means “don’t add any more sugar to the sugar syrup and sweetened condensed milk that are standard.” If you absolutely do not want any sweetener in your drink, say “Mai mee namtaan” (no sugar). You might get it the way you want it.

Eating manners

·         It is common for a Thai to serve you portions of food from the dishes brought to the table. It is considered good manners to do this for others as well, sharing your food rather than keeping it all to yourself.

·         Thais often use a spoon to cut with, unless knives have been placed at the table. The main utensils are a fork and spoon. Chopsticks are rarely used except for eating noodle soups.

·         Most food is not eaten with the fingers, even pizza and chicken wings! There are exceptions: follow the lead of your hosts.

·         Do not rest your chin in your hand at the table. It signals that you are bored.

·         If using a toothpick, don’t roll it around or dig away at your teeth. Hide the pick and your teeth with your other hand as you clean your teeth.

The Monarchy

In Thailand, the king and his family are revered. The highest respect is always paid to the royal family. This belief is so strong, that there is a law in effect forbidding any negative comments about the king, either spoken or written, with severe penalties, including prison time, for offenders. For instance,

·         Do not make jokes or make disparaging remarks about the king.

·         Never deface an image of the king.

·         Never use an image of the king for anything that would be considered offensive.

·         Do not stop a rolling coin (the king’s image is on all coins) by stepping on it. Use your hand.

Patience & tolerance

Thailand’s motto may well be “Jai yen yen.” Translated, it literally means “cool heart.” It is considered extremely rude to display anger. It also indicates lack of control on the part of the person making a fuss. Thais are extremely patient. Even in rush hour traffic it is rare to hear a car horn except a short beep as a warning to another driver who may be coming too close.

Thais are very tolerant and patient with foreigners who cannot keep a cool heart, but that doesn’t mean they like or accept it. They just won’t tell you so. Patience is important in this country where things don’t always go as planned, especially with the famous traffic slow downs. So, lengthen your fuse, and relax. You will get much more out of your visit if you can have “jai yen yen.” Remember, this is not where you came from. Watch and follow the lead of this very patient society.

Bangkok vignettes

Sidewalk amulet sales are a common sight everywhere in Thailand. People take their amulets very seriously. Some sell for hundreds, and occasionally thousands of dollars. 

I love Bangkok's street life. Thai culture is displayed in the events that are continuously being played out on every street in the city. People jam the sidewalks to buy, well, just about anything. I am always astonished at the sheer volume of fresh produce, meats, clothing, sweets, eggs, trinkets, amulets, ice cream, hot dishes and cooked food available all day every day. I often wonder how anyone can sell enough to sustain their families. But judging by the masses of people that buy, apparently they do.

As one wanders through the streams of people, stepping around sleeping dogs, being jostled by strangers on the crowded sidewalks, and exchanging smiles and greetings with vendors, there is a kaleidoscope of images that meld into a wonderful microcosm that says "This is Thailand".

This post is a collage of my most recent photos on the streets of eastern Bangkok.

Photos by the author. All rights reserved. Do not use without permission.

Early morning alms. Monks make their rounds, chanting blessings after receiving food from the pious.

A man sells cooked corn and other vegetables from his baskets that he carries slung from a pole across his shoulder from place to place.

Students at a barber school give free haircuts on the street as their instructors observe and assess the techniques.

 A man plays a kaen, a complicated reed instrument, on the sidewalk 
for spare change.

A common open air kitchen where rice and noodle dishes are cooked and served at sit down tables or in takeaway containers.

A young girl naps on a rice bag between rounds of begging.

These street-side vendors show why Thailand is known as
"The Land of Smiles".

A vendor softens grilled dried squid by passing it several times through a ridged hand-cranked wringer.

A tailor in a covered market.
His old machine is operated by a foot pedal.

 Kanom krok, a traditional Thai sweet. A soft cake made from rice flour and dried vegetable pieces, it is topped with a sweet coconut layer, covered and baked over steaming water. Aroy mahk! Delicious!

As in most cities of the world, some people must find places to sleep off a night of heavy drinking, as they have nowhere else to go. This man was on a pedestrian overpass at 8:00 in the morning.

 A man begs in a busy intersection near a large market.

 Scene at a small Chinese Buddhist temple. Many Bangkok Thais have Chinese heritage and such temples are commonplace, frequented by all Thais, whether Chinese or not.

 Vendors peel and section jackfruit on a sidewalk next to a bank.

 Flower vendors sell masses of blooms every day, as people buy them for placing on altars in their homes or at the office or to take to a wat  (temple). The two people on the left are stringing together garlands of jasmine and marigolds that they will sell for 20 baht (60 cents).

 It is common to see flowers and multi-colored fabrics encircling very large trees. Often it is a bodhi tree, the tree where it is said the Buddha was meditating when he reached enlightenment (this one is not). These locations act as places for prayer, or to mark the scene of a fatal accident, or near businesses as good luck.

Time out for homework at a busy market.