Chiang Mai, Thailand: An intimate look

Returning to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand for a visit, I had seen most of the "must see" sights. However, as I walked through the streets in the Old City and into the courtyards of some of the more than 100 temples, I began to look a little more closely at the details. As a result, I came away with a more intimate look at Thailand's second largest city.

Following are glimpses into the everyday scenes in Chiang Mai, nearly all without identifying features that give away their location. My intent was to document the city and its people up close. I hope I have succeeded, and invite your comments.

All photos by the author, all rights reserved. Copyright © 2014 John R Stiles. It is illegal to use the images without permission.

Monk vestments drying near the dormitory at a temple.

Colorful decorations hang across a temple prayer hall.

Puppets in traditional Thai dress

A senior monk strolls down a street, shielded from the hot sun

This delicate glassware contains relics of various important Buddhist monks. One (higher, out of sight) is purported to contain a relic of the Buddha.

Thais do not have cemeteries so most temples have memorials like this for families to remember their departed loved ones. 

Temple altars have a variety of Buddha images

Weathered wood of temples has wonderful texture

Bodhi trees (it is said Buddha attained enlightenment under one in India) are considered sacred in Thailand, thus many are wrapped in colorful lengths of fabric.

Intricate reliefs are common on temple windows and doors

This colorful shed caught my eye

An artist paints on a temple's grounds.

Temple altar. The lotus-shaped decorations are made from dried flowers. Beautiful and intricate.

At night, Chiang Mai is quiet, with scenes like this along small side streets.

Street vendors work late into the night. This one is near my hotel.

Akha hill tribe woman near Chiang Mai

Lost in translation. The Thai is not any more understandable, according to a Thai friend. This was written by a monk at a mountaintop temple near Chiang Mai.

Steps on a pagoda that enshrines a Buddha relic, built by local kings circa 1840.

A senior monk blesses the devout.

There are many al fresco paintings on temple walls. Unfortunately, I cannot read the teachings written beneath each one. You will just have to use your imagination.

This is an exception to my unidentifiable location guideline. Anyone who has been to this temple will know it immediately. But I liked the contrast and unusual perspective of this view. Most visitors take photos of the grand vista within the temple grounds. This one makes me feel like being on the inside looking out.

I liked the serene face and gold leaf on this Buddha statue in one of the temples.

Life size concrete elephants surround a chedi (pagoda) at a temple

Kitchen at a riverside restaurant

Laid back Chiang Mai

A trip to Chiang Mai provides the traveler with a relaxing break from the frenetic pace of Bangkok, and a more engaging visit than the Thai beaches. Set in the beautiful misty mountains of northern Thailand, Chiang Mai immediately draws one into its slower pace. Instead of buses and swarms of taxis found in Bangkok, Thailand's second-largest city buzzes with small three wheeled tuk tuks and the more traditional human-powered pedicabs. Small sidewalk restaurants provide northern and traditional Thai cuisine to patrons seated at tables, often in the street, where traffic lazily veers around the parked motorcycles and bicycles. (Photos by the author, all rights reserved. Do not use without permission.)

A typical roadside vendor. This one serves up delicious fruit smoothies for 30 baht ($1).

Tuk tuks are one of the two main modes of transport in Chiang Mai. The other is the two bench "songthao".

It seems that fewer people are dictated by the clock in Chiang Mai. Shops may or may not open at the expected time, or perhaps not at all. I asked the receptionist at my hotel, "Where is the nearest place to eat breakfast?" She thought a minute, then said, "Nothing around here is open that early." I found that there are indeed some open early in the downtown area, catering mostly to foreign tourists.

Instead of the glitz of the enormous shopping malls of Bangkok, Chiang Mai has thousands of interesting tiny shops, and arts and crafts spread out in umbrella-covered market places. Instead of the sleaze of the capital city's sex massage parlors on Soi Cowboy and Patpong, Chiang Mai has traditional massage spots, many set in the shade of tree canopies on temple grounds. Of course, one can find these things in Chiang Mai, but they are not as obvious or prevalent.

Street markets are not only places to buy and sell: they are popular meeting places and social centers.

No one looks at a clock in the market place.

A relaxing one and a half hour foot massage at a temple, 180 baht ($5.50; $7 with tip).

Fortunately, Chiang Mai has preserved much of its ancient architecture, and has an amazing number of stunning temples set among gardens and tree-lined walks. One resident told me that there are over 100 wats (temples) in the small original walled city, which can easily be covered on foot. Each wat offers a respite from the heat and street noise, and has unique qualities that set it apart from the others. Many are absolutely stunning, others have an understated elegance in the beautiful details of their artwork and decorations.

The magnificent staircase to Wat Doi Suthep atop a mountain outside of Chiang Mai. The scales of the "nagas" that line the steps are individually painted and fired ceramic tiles.

A devotee circles the chedi (pagoda) at Doi Suthep three times. Many chant a meditation as they walk.

Young girls in hill tribe outfits on the steps of Doi Suthep.
This photo cost me (and other tourists) 20 baht (60 cents). They made a bundle, as you might imagine!

Temple door detail, painstakingly hand painted.

An altar set in a corner of a temple's grounds, overlooked by most visitors.

Monks preparing candles and holy water for a gathering at a wat in Chiang Mai.

Entrance to monks' quarters at a wat.

Some of the decorative hangings and door carvings at wats are lovely. 

A roof (ceiling) of dried palm leaves woven in bamboo frames in a "sala" or outdoor seating area.

Monk garments drying behind the dormitory.

Gorgeous intricate inlays in a temple wall. 

Prayer bells, rung for good luck.

Base of chedi (pagoda) with serene image.

Chedi detail.

Temple grounds offer a restful place to escape the city noise.

Reminders are often posted on the grounds of wats.

Beautiful "al fresco" paintings are often present on the walls of wats.

A tuk tuk driver naps in a wat parking area.

Window detail.