Chiang Mai, Thailand: An intimate look

Returning to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand for a visit, I had seen most of the "must see" sights. However, as I walked through the streets in the Old City and into the courtyards of some of the more than 100 temples, I began to look a little more closely at the details. As a result, I came away with a more intimate look at Thailand's second largest city.

Following are glimpses into the everyday scenes in Chiang Mai, nearly all without identifying features that give away their location. My intent was to document the city and its people up close. I hope I have succeeded, and invite your comments.

All photos by the author, all rights reserved. Copyright © 2014 John R Stiles. It is illegal to use the images without permission.

Monk vestments drying near the dormitory at a temple.

Colorful decorations hang across a temple prayer hall.

Puppets in traditional Thai dress

A senior monk strolls down a street, shielded from the hot sun

This delicate glassware contains relics of various important Buddhist monks. One (higher, out of sight) is purported to contain a relic of the Buddha.

Thais do not have cemeteries so most temples have memorials like this for families to remember their departed loved ones. 

Temple altars have a variety of Buddha images

Weathered wood of temples has wonderful texture

Bodhi trees (it is said Buddha attained enlightenment under one in India) are considered sacred in Thailand, thus many are wrapped in colorful lengths of fabric.

Intricate reliefs are common on temple windows and doors

This colorful shed caught my eye

An artist paints on a temple's grounds.

Temple altar. The lotus-shaped decorations are made from dried flowers. Beautiful and intricate.

At night, Chiang Mai is quiet, with scenes like this along small side streets.

Street vendors work late into the night. This one is near my hotel.

Akha hill tribe woman near Chiang Mai

Lost in translation. The Thai is not any more understandable, according to a Thai friend. This was written by a monk at a mountaintop temple near Chiang Mai.

Steps on a pagoda that enshrines a Buddha relic, built by local kings circa 1840.

A senior monk blesses the devout.

There are many al fresco paintings on temple walls. Unfortunately, I cannot read the teachings written beneath each one. You will just have to use your imagination.

This is an exception to my unidentifiable location guideline. Anyone who has been to this temple will know it immediately. But I liked the contrast and unusual perspective of this view. Most visitors take photos of the grand vista within the temple grounds. This one makes me feel like being on the inside looking out.

I liked the serene face and gold leaf on this Buddha statue in one of the temples.

Life size concrete elephants surround a chedi (pagoda) at a temple

Kitchen at a riverside restaurant

A visit to a Buddhist monk country retreat

A few weeks ago I was fortunate to visit a country retreat for Buddhist monks in northeast Thailand. Most people see monks only in the temples located in larger cities or perhaps in small villages as they make their daily rounds accepting alms from the devout. To be taken to a retreat tucked away in the countryside accessible only by a path tramped through grasses and mud, is quite special. 

A Buddhist monk country retreat. The land was donated by a local citizen, about 2 "rai" or a little less than an acre, for monks to practice meditation and learn about the teachings of Buddha in the solace of an isolated place surrounded by nature. This peaceful scene is a few kilometers outside a small village, about 200 meters off a rutted dirt road.

At this particular retreat, four monks and two novices live in simple houses that they made themselves using local materials, and gather rain water for bathing, washing, and watering plants. The monks spend most of each day in meditation and study of dhamma, or Buddhist teachings. Following are some of the photos I took during my visit and explanations offered by one of the monks. 

The simple houses each took four months to build by hand, including the splitting of the wood for the siding and floors, as well as for construction of the bridge. The metal roofs were donated. Notice the large ceramic aung between the houses. This catches water during the rainy season that is used for bathing and watering plants that adorn the small porches. The bridge allows passage over a small pond. I wanted to wade out to take photos of the lotus blossoms, but was warned that there are crocodiles in the water! You will just have to view them from a distance like I did.

Interior of one of the monk's rooms with a simple mat for sleeping, and a mosquito net hung from the ceiling. Note that they do have electricity. I also noticed that they have Internet access, donated by the local village. However, when I asked, the monks said that they do not have computers, so do not use it. Occasionally, visitors may use it, particularly those that may stay several days due to medical needs, which the monks provide.

A novice monk, 18 years old, does chores. The novice monks receive food and care while at the retreat. Usually, novice monks are young boys who do not have families, or whose families are too poor to send them to school. The shelters built by the novices are even more simple than those of the established monks, made mainly of tree limb frames and grass or palm thatched roofs.

Since the monks do not have access to the village to receive food and other alms, the people come to them. Here, a neighbor brings food for the monks' only daily meal, which according to tradition must be eaten before noon. Another woman also brought food on that particular day. Notice that the monks sit on a raised platform and the woman is kneeling. This is to show reverence for the monks' position in Thai society.

Monks partaking of their meal. I found these monks to be particularly fortunate on this day, as they do not often get such a large meal. Leftovers are kept to be shared with hungry visitors, and/or shared with the pet dogs. But the monks eat first.

A novice monk washes dishes as part of his duties. Water is from the aung seen to his left.

Buddhism traditionally is the central anchor of Thai society, and monks play a key role in teaching about the religion and how to live one's life in accordance with the words of Buddha. Historically, every male became a monk for at least a month or so, but that tradition is waning. Monks are still honored, but I have noticed that in the past two decades they receive less deference by Thais. Even so, when I think of Thailand and its culture, one of the most significant influences I observe is that of the monks.

A One Day Ramble in Bangkok

Bangkok is a city of contrasts: ancient and modern, traditional and new, serene and frantic, grand and modest, complex and simple. Most first-time visitors to Bangkok, or Krungtep (Kroong tep), as it is called by Thais (its current name), see the more dynamic sights: glittering temples alongside the mighty Chao Praya River, huge gleaming shopping malls, floating markets, Yaowarat Road in Chinatown, the Grand Palace, and the robust night life of Patpong, Soi Cowboy and Sukhumvit Road.

But for those who stay a while, often years, more layers of Bangkok can be peeled away through short excursions in any part of the city. This way, Bangkok becomes more identifiable, more familiar and thus less intimidating.

This is not to say that one can just let down all defenses and stray anywhere in this megalopolis that is ten times the size of New York City in area. Like any large world city, dangers lurk in certain places, and even the seasoned resident is wise to remain vigilant.

However, the quiet side of Bangkok, which reflects the more traditional way of life, as well as the life of those struggling to better their lives of living hand to mouth can be observed by traveling in the less well-known but relatively safe areas of the city. It is there that "cheewit Thai" (Thai life) can be experienced.

I recently took a one day tour of Bangkok, using six modes of travel (walking, motorcycle taxi, metered taxi, subway, train and canal boat taxi). Here, in chronological order, are the sights along the way.

All photos © by the author. All rights reserved. Do not use without permission.

Construction workers make 200-300 baht (~$6.50-$9.50) per ten hour day. Here workers take a break along the railway by Laksi station in northern Bangkok.

Many temporary homes (that frequently become more or less permanent) are found in several locations. This is a setting along the northern rail line near Bang Sue station.

Hua Lumpong is the city's central station and a hub of travel connections for Thais and foreign visitors alike. Here three recent graduates of the prestigious police academy proudly pose.

Chinatown is a short walk from Hua Lumpong station. On Yaowarat Road, one can observe continuous activity at Chinese Buddhist and Taoist temples.

The state lottery, held twice a month, is a very large part of Thai life. Vendors can be seen literally everywhere, some walking, some on bicycles, some set up like this man on city sidewalks. This is on Yaowarat Road. Last week's winner took home 30 million baht (about US$940,000). Such jackpots keep the hopeful buying tickets, many first conferring with fortune tellers or getting lucky numbers from temples.

A popular activity in many parts of the world: fish that clean dead skin from a person's feet. This sidewalk shop is on a side street in Chinatown.

If one wants to experience even more traditional life, it is necessary to explore the tiny alleys that twist between side streets, particularly in Chinatown. Here a man prepares gai tod, crispy deep fried chicken.

A common sight everywhere in Thailand away from the modern uptown streets: soups cooked over open charcoal fires

On a tiny side street, these men peel hundreds of mangoes each day.

Commerce is continuous, even away from the main roads, products moved by hand cart as shown here, or often carried on shoulder poles or simply on shoulders or backs.

In a small Chinese temple (only three other persons stopped by while I was there), the altar displays a wooden bell (right) and monk prayer books, two in Thai, the other in Chinese.

Durian, the most wonderful (or disgusting, depending on one's sense of smell) fruit in Thailand. Hotels often post signs proclaiming that this pungent fruit may not be taken into rooms.

A young caped crusader casts a serious look in front of an herbal drink shop. I tried one of the brews that is proclaimed to have healthy healing effects. Unfortunately, they also added a lot of sugar, which pretty much negates any health benefits.

A friend, Greg Goodmacher, a professor and free lance writer from Japan, collects information about teas for an upcoming article about Thailand tea and coffee shops. The most expensive tea at this shop is jasmine flower, which costs 8,000 baht per kilo ($113 per pound)!

An array of teas on display.

More herbal drinks brewed at another shop. I tried this one too.
Still too sweet.

Some of the herbs used to make drinks.
The far one looked like a type of cedar.

An ice crushing machine in a back alley of Chinatown. About half of the very large ice blocks (under the tarps behind the young man) had been hoisted up one by one and put through the chopper, then bagged and delivered to nearby shops.

On the walk back to Hua Lumpong station, I saw this man sleeping in a doorway. It is not an unusual sight, but it is fairly uncommon to see, even though Bangkok is quite large.

After a ride on the subway, I stopped to take a boat taxi on the San Saeb canal. There are many sights of Thai life to see along the way. Here, standing room only requires passengers to hang onto ropes slung across the boat's ceiling.

Small cable ferries take passengers across the canal for three baht
(10 cents)

Although canal boats do not have the problem of traffic jams, delays can happen. As my luck would have it, the engine overheated and we sat for several minutes while the conductors poured canal water on it until cool enough to start again.

At a wat (temple) near the boat terminus, statues of revered monks are adorned with gold leaf by the faithful.

If you want to see the less hectic and more traditional side of Thailand in its capital city, get off the main roads. You will learn a lot.