Bangkok vignettes

Sidewalk amulet sales are a common sight everywhere in Thailand. People take their amulets very seriously. Some sell for hundreds, and occasionally thousands of dollars. 

I love Bangkok's street life. Thai culture is displayed in the events that are continuously being played out on every street in the city. People jam the sidewalks to buy, well, just about anything. I am always astonished at the sheer volume of fresh produce, meats, clothing, sweets, eggs, trinkets, amulets, ice cream, hot dishes and cooked food available all day every day. I often wonder how anyone can sell enough to sustain their families. But judging by the masses of people that buy, apparently they do.

As one wanders through the streams of people, stepping around sleeping dogs, being jostled by strangers on the crowded sidewalks, and exchanging smiles and greetings with vendors, there is a kaleidoscope of images that meld into a wonderful microcosm that says "This is Thailand".

This post is a collage of my most recent photos on the streets of eastern Bangkok.

Photos by the author. All rights reserved. Do not use without permission.

Early morning alms. Monks make their rounds, chanting blessings after receiving food from the pious.

A man sells cooked corn and other vegetables from his baskets that he carries slung from a pole across his shoulder from place to place.

Students at a barber school give free haircuts on the street as their instructors observe and assess the techniques.

 A man plays a kaen, a complicated reed instrument, on the sidewalk 
for spare change.

A common open air kitchen where rice and noodle dishes are cooked and served at sit down tables or in takeaway containers.

A young girl naps on a rice bag between rounds of begging.

These street-side vendors show why Thailand is known as
"The Land of Smiles".

A vendor softens grilled dried squid by passing it several times through a ridged hand-cranked wringer.

A tailor in a covered market.
His old machine is operated by a foot pedal.

 Kanom krok, a traditional Thai sweet. A soft cake made from rice flour and dried vegetable pieces, it is topped with a sweet coconut layer, covered and baked over steaming water. Aroy mahk! Delicious!

As in most cities of the world, some people must find places to sleep off a night of heavy drinking, as they have nowhere else to go. This man was on a pedestrian overpass at 8:00 in the morning.

 A man begs in a busy intersection near a large market.

 Scene at a small Chinese Buddhist temple. Many Bangkok Thais have Chinese heritage and such temples are commonplace, frequented by all Thais, whether Chinese or not.

 Vendors peel and section jackfruit on a sidewalk next to a bank.

 Flower vendors sell masses of blooms every day, as people buy them for placing on altars in their homes or at the office or to take to a wat  (temple). The two people on the left are stringing together garlands of jasmine and marigolds that they will sell for 20 baht (60 cents).

 It is common to see flowers and multi-colored fabrics encircling very large trees. Often it is a bodhi tree, the tree where it is said the Buddha was meditating when he reached enlightenment (this one is not). These locations act as places for prayer, or to mark the scene of a fatal accident, or near businesses as good luck.

Time out for homework at a busy market.

Night Market

Every now and then I get together with my good friend Jeff Harper (former colleague at the American School in London, now, happily, in Bangkok [counselor at ISB, and photographer extraordinaire]) for a walkabout in a Thai market, followed by a most satisfying session of the best live blues in Asia in an adjoining night club, Saxophone. This time we were accompanied by friends, one of whom was visiting from New York City, and one of the best photographers I know, Ed Haynsworth. To view exceptional photos by both of these fine photographers, go to the following links:

http://www.edhaynsworth.com/

http://drjeffbangkok.squarespace.com

Following are some of the scenes I happened across. The ever-changing market bubbles with energy and activity, giving a glimpse into Thai life. As we shared our photos, we quickly realized that none of us had taken the same shots as the others, despite criss-crossing the buzzing marketplace numerous times.

I think I found half of the remaining pay phones in Thailand.

Back Streets

If one sticks to the main tourist streets in Bangkok, opportunities for richer cultural experiences are lost. Of course, one must be careful, and use discretion with personal safety in mind no matter which city is explored. In the heart of Bangkok's "old city" is the famous Banglumpoo district, and its main thoroughfare, Khaosan Road where masses of tourists and backpackers flock in the search for cheap accommodations, food, souvenirs, drinks, and other substances, although the atmosphere itself can be mind altering.

I don't often travel to Khaosan Road, as the tourist scene is usually too noisy and crowded, but once in a while--generally annually--I venture there to buy an item I know can be found at one of the stalls when I can't find it anywhere else, or if in search of souvenirs to take back as gifts and I don't want to face the crush of the huge weekend market at Jatujak. But, once there, I don't linger. I head to the side streets where the "Bohemian" Bangkok exists. Sitting at a sidewalk cafe, sipping a beer and watching people is an enjoyable way for me to pass the time before I must get back into a taxi and face the long ride home.

Wandering down the tiny connecting alleyways, one may find little "hole in the wall" bars and food stalls, dimly lit by bare overhanging bulbs. One such establishment is "Happy Bar" which lives up to its name. Nothing fancy, just friendly owners and patrons. Below are examples of the urban artwork seen on the walls outside the bar.