Phasa Rains Retreat in Thailand ("Lent")

Vassa (from the ancient Pali language) is the annual three month "rains retreat" observed by Buddhists, especially for monks and other serious practitioners of traditional Theravada Buddhism. It is sometimes referred to by westerners as "Buddhist Lent" because many lay people choose to give up consumption of a particular substance (smoking, drinking alcohol) or food, such as meat. However, Buddhists do not call it "Lent". In Thailand, it is known as Phasa.

Phasa begins with throngs of people turning out at local "wats" (temples) to give alms to monks, receive blessings and seek guidance from fortune tellers. It is a swirl of activity, solemnity mixed with a carnival-like atmosphere lasting at least until midnight. Crowds of a hundred or more walk three times around the wat in a continuous candle-lit procession; a steady stream of newcomers take the place of those leaving. Nearby, food vendors offer a staggering variety of food and drink.

At the last moment, I decided to stop at a nearby wat (actually two wats across a klong (canal) from each other, to witness one of Thailand's biggest holiday celebrations. I was captivated by the colors, the smells, the smoke of incense hanging in the air, the calls of vendors hawking wares, monks chanting, and fascinating ancient rituals that are carried on today.

As is often the case in this easternmost town in Bangkok province, I was privileged to be the sole westerner (in a crowd of at least a thousand) that witnessed the celebration. Westerners are not uncommon here, but for some reason do not usually show up in the outer reaches of Bangkok to experience Thailand's rich cultural and religious festivals right in their "back yard".

Celebrants pay 20 baht (US 60 cents) for a candle, three incense sticks and a bouquet of orchids to carry with them and give as offerings at the entrance to the wat.

After circling the wat three times, the candle and incense are placed in sand-filled troughs; the flowers are placed in a pile at either end near the steps to the wat.

A tradition in Thailand is the making of very large candles that are given to the monks. Here people take turns dipping long ladles into melted wax and filling a candle mold.

One way to "make merit" is to release confined animals, such as birds (paying for the opportunity of course). At this wat, all of the animals were aquatic: frogs, fish, eels and turtles. Here they await the kind-hearted to release them into the nearest body of water (the klong a few meters away).

Although no alcohol can be bought in shops or grocery stores on this day, an enterprising woman set up her mobile converted Volkswagon bar and sold mixed drinks (just outside the wat walls of course). Here I enjoy a gin drink with fruit soda. Delicious, even though perhaps sacrilegious.

Laid back Chiang Mai

A trip to Chiang Mai provides the traveler with a relaxing break from the frenetic pace of Bangkok, and a more engaging visit than the Thai beaches. Set in the beautiful misty mountains of northern Thailand, Chiang Mai immediately draws one into its slower pace. Instead of buses and swarms of taxis found in Bangkok, Thailand's second-largest city buzzes with small three wheeled tuk tuks and the more traditional human-powered pedicabs. Small sidewalk restaurants provide northern and traditional Thai cuisine to patrons seated at tables, often in the street, where traffic lazily veers around the parked motorcycles and bicycles. (Photos by the author, all rights reserved. Do not use without permission.)

A typical roadside vendor. This one serves up delicious fruit smoothies for 30 baht ($1).

Tuk tuks are one of the two main modes of transport in Chiang Mai. The other is the two bench "songthao".

It seems that fewer people are dictated by the clock in Chiang Mai. Shops may or may not open at the expected time, or perhaps not at all. I asked the receptionist at my hotel, "Where is the nearest place to eat breakfast?" She thought a minute, then said, "Nothing around here is open that early." I found that there are indeed some open early in the downtown area, catering mostly to foreign tourists.

Instead of the glitz of the enormous shopping malls of Bangkok, Chiang Mai has thousands of interesting tiny shops, and arts and crafts spread out in umbrella-covered market places. Instead of the sleaze of the capital city's sex massage parlors on Soi Cowboy and Patpong, Chiang Mai has traditional massage spots, many set in the shade of tree canopies on temple grounds. Of course, one can find these things in Chiang Mai, but they are not as obvious or prevalent.

Street markets are not only places to buy and sell: they are popular meeting places and social centers.

No one looks at a clock in the market place.

A relaxing one and a half hour foot massage at a temple, 180 baht ($5.50; $7 with tip).

Fortunately, Chiang Mai has preserved much of its ancient architecture, and has an amazing number of stunning temples set among gardens and tree-lined walks. One resident told me that there are over 100 wats (temples) in the small original walled city, which can easily be covered on foot. Each wat offers a respite from the heat and street noise, and has unique qualities that set it apart from the others. Many are absolutely stunning, others have an understated elegance in the beautiful details of their artwork and decorations.

The magnificent staircase to Wat Doi Suthep atop a mountain outside of Chiang Mai. The scales of the "nagas" that line the steps are individually painted and fired ceramic tiles.

A devotee circles the chedi (pagoda) at Doi Suthep three times. Many chant a meditation as they walk.

Young girls in hill tribe outfits on the steps of Doi Suthep.
This photo cost me (and other tourists) 20 baht (60 cents). They made a bundle, as you might imagine!

Temple door detail, painstakingly hand painted.

An altar set in a corner of a temple's grounds, overlooked by most visitors.

Monks preparing candles and holy water for a gathering at a wat in Chiang Mai.

Entrance to monks' quarters at a wat.

Some of the decorative hangings and door carvings at wats are lovely. 

A roof (ceiling) of dried palm leaves woven in bamboo frames in a "sala" or outdoor seating area.

Monk garments drying behind the dormitory.

Gorgeous intricate inlays in a temple wall. 

Prayer bells, rung for good luck.

Base of chedi (pagoda) with serene image.

Chedi detail.

Temple grounds offer a restful place to escape the city noise.

Reminders are often posted on the grounds of wats.

Beautiful "al fresco" paintings are often present on the walls of wats.

A tuk tuk driver naps in a wat parking area.

Window detail.

Little treasures

Each day there is something new in the details of life in the neighborhoods. Sometimes they occur and are not noticed, but once in a while I am struck by the change and it literally stops me in my tracks. Such is the following scene, that did not appear (or maybe I had not noticed it) before today, even though I pass by frequently. (Photo by the author, all rights reserved. Use by permission only.)

Early morning at a sidewalk noodle cart.