Growing up poor in a Thai village: a conversation

Visitors do not often see Thailand beyond Bangkok and the seaside resorts. This is true of many foreigners who have lived here for years. If they do, access to Thai culture is limited to what one can see, as language barriers prevent deep understanding. Because of this eventual awareness after a few years of living in Thailand, I realized that my stalled language learning needed a boost if I was to ever get to know the people and Thai culture better. I became intent on understanding and speaking more Thai, so I made a goal of learning at least one new word or phrase every day (and--very important--pronouncing it correctly). It has made a huge difference.

Many Thais who were friendly are now friends, and I enjoy speaking with them on almost a daily basis. What I didn't expect was to have them open up to me as much as some have. Their stories have woven quite a different tapestry of life in Thailand than I had observed, particularly rural Thailand, although some are from the cities, and their history is usually very different.

The following story is one of several that will appear in this blog from time to time. The subject of this post is a woman from a tiny village in the northeast near the Cambodian border. The first time I met her and her sister, one of the first things they said to me was, "We have black skin." I found it odd that first, they would point that out, and second, their skin is nowhere near black, but rather a beautiful light chocolate color. I said that "chocolate is delicious, and vanilla is bua [boring]", which elicited a chuckle. I was to learn that skin color is a very big deal in Thailand, and those with darker skin are looked down upon as having low status. I have to admit that it has bothered me ever since, particularly as a parent of two adopted Thai daughters who have dark skin, one of whom had been teased in school by lighter-skinned Thai kids.

Eventually, I became good friends with the two ladies and often spend time asking them to teach me Thai (in return I teach them English), and in doing so, stories about their lives continue to emerge. Here is one of them, written in a hybrid Thai-influenced English version as I remember hearing it. 

"I not finish mataiyom (high school). My mother not have any money to buy choot (clothes) and things for school. When I am young, about 7 year, I get one baht (3 cents) every week for kanom (candy). Sometimes I not get one baht, but if I get one baht, I save it all week to buy something Friday. Sometimes she not give me food to take to school, so I eat din. You know din? (dirt) You ever eat it? It not bad, taste waan (sweet). So I eat it, it free. My father die very young, 37 year old, mother get land, but no money, so she sell some land. I choke dee (lucky), I have some land for house some day, but I not make enough money to make house. Maybe only have land, never house. Family have rice field, have rice one time every year to sell.

"When I am 16 year old, my mother not have money, so I stop school, go to Bangkok to work. I work for Chinese family as mae ban (house maid). I get free room, free food, and 1,200 baht ($37) every month. I think I am rich! I clean house and cook, work every day 12 hour. I do for two year, then I go work at company, make more money but work hard. I make 1,500 baht ($45) every month working 8 hour every day, but not enough so I work two times every day, 16 hour. I do that for 8 year. No time off. I very tired all the time.

"Now I have good job, go to massage school, learn free, now work 10 hour every day, take day off sometime. Pay is okay, but sometime I make only enough for taxi and dinner. But some days I get many lukka (customers) and good tip so can make 800 ($24) or 1,000 baht ($30). Boss take 60%, I keep 40%. I pay 1,500 baht every month for rent, about 200 baht for namfi (water and electricity). I give 3,000 baht to mother and 2,000 baht to loogsao (daughter) every month. She not live with me. Live with her father in Isan (northeast Thailand). 

"My life better now, have enough for food and can travel for visiting family."

Next: Living apart from children.

Chongchom market on the Thailand-Cambodia border

As one approaches the border with Cambodia, more police checkpoints appear. Here, young men are required to give a urine sample presumably to be checked for drugs.

I had heard about Chongchom market, a large awning-covered bazaar in Thailand at the border of Cambodia, so I decided to take a short trip to the Isaan region of the country and make my way to the market. I was not disappointed.

Most foreigners in Thailand are familiar with Jatujak market in Bangkok, the world's largest outdoor bazaar. However, the smaller Chongchom market is somewhat out of the way, requiring a 6-7 hour bus ride to Sangkha in the province of Surin, then a 30 minute tuk tuk ride. Next to the market on the Cambodia side is a casino where many foreigners go to renew their tourist visas. Thais go as well, perhaps as an addition to the market trip. I did not go to the casino on this trip.

Although a hot day, it was relatively cool under the vast spread of awnings, and it was easy to just stroll along and take in the ambiance and shop displays. Thai, Khmer (Cambodian) and the Isaan dialect are spoken at Chongchom, as one might expect. I saw only three other westerners in the crowd that day.

Chongchom market is spread out under a vast array of awnings.

Children eyeing cotton candy, a woman begging with a sick child in her lap and a woman selling lottery tickets are common sights at markets.

These girls were playing with other children; they were speaking Khmer, but I don't know if they were Cambodian or Thai.

There were many Buddhist monks among the shoppers at Chongchom.

A blind man begs for change with a small child asleep beside him.

Many old wood carvings were for sale, as well as intricately painted ceramic items. The large ceramic urn at right had a price tag of 30,000 baht ($1,000).

I settled for this unusual bronze Chinese seated Buddha. What I thought at first was a hat, I realized as I studied it more closely is a lotus blossom. Note the lotus plants and aquatic animals under the figure. Another lotus seed pod is on his shoulder. I have never seen anything like this, so I was pleased with my acquisition. Cost after bargaining, 500 baht ($15). It was my only purchase that day, except for one ice cold can of Thai beer.

There are always colorful dried chilis for sale at any Thai market.

An assortment of tubers, and, wow--live giant water bugs. I was told that they are quite aromatic and delicious when cooked. I'll take their word for it for now.

A view of three stalls.

The lure of cotton candy.

At a smaller town market not far from Chongchom, large umbrellas shade vendors from the hot afternoon sun.

These delightful ladies teased me until I took their picture.

Across the street was a fabric shop with an eye-catching display of colorful yarn.

I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to Chongchom market. I recommend it, despite the relatively long bus ride. It gives one an authentic look at this interesting region.